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Advantages of Seamless
Gutters
The gutters on any home are absolutely integral to keeping
everything safe, dry and in proper working order. Roofs are
graded for a reason, and the amount of angle your roof is
manufactured to can make all the difference when it comes to
drainage and runoff. Needless to say, any obstruction in your
home's drainage system and you could be looking at a potential
source of flooding and mildew – hardly the kind of visitors
you want. There was a time when most homes were made simply to
drain water off the leading edges, but today a variety of
gutter technologies have arisen to handle this precipitation
head on.
For several decades in a row, most gutters were manufactured
the same way. Steel pieces were soldered together using
welding torches and other professional machinery – not a
project homeowners could undertake without assistance. All
that changed with the advent of aluminum gutters that required
little more than snap-on fasteners and elbow grease to go up.
The great advantage of solutions such as these is that they
could be installed without difficulty, often in the space of
an afternoon. The disadvantage, however, when was that such
convenience also brought with it a new problem: leaking.
It may seem counterintuitive to worry about gutters leaking –
after all, draining water is what they do! The problem, of
course, is that gutters are made to drain in specific ways,
through their downspouts, and not into the walls and
foundation of your home. Little leaks like these can quickly
lead to major problems at the structural level, defacing your
home’s exterior and adding significantly to the chances for
rot. Even minor leaks may eventually erode the fasteners that
hold those gutters to the roof, creating a hazard that could
fall without warning on family members or visitors. It is for
this reason that the home experts unanimously recommend
regular gutter maintenance to ensure everything stays intact.
One of the most innovative solutions to the problem of leaking
gutters has arisen only in the last couple of decades –
seamless gutters. If you've never seen these clever devices
before, they work essentially like their traditional
counterparts, with one major difference – they are cut and
bent from a single piece of tubing. That means with few
exceptions, seamless gutters have no joints, fasteners or
other fissures that could let in pathogens and ultimately give
way to the ravages of time. Although seams do exist in corners
and the connections to downspouts, these can generally be
secured far better during installation than anything you could
do on your own.
Probably the greatest advantage to seamless gutters is that
they minimize the amount of maintenance you need to perform
every season. Depending on the configuration you've chosen –
adding filters above is often recommended – you may be able to
get away with many months of consistent use without any major
cleaning. Many of these gutters are also hung from your
roofing far more securely than the traditional aluminum sort,
lending an additional level of security to the home. Finally
they are far less likely to allow chipmunks, birds and other
pests into the system. Many homeowners are surprised to
discover just how clean the lining remains even after years of
use.
Of course there are some reasons to think carefully about this
choice before you install. Seamless gutters are generally
regarded as too complex to install on your own, meaning you'll
need to have professionals out of the house for hours at a
stretch. They also cost more for similar reasons – seamless
gutters must be cut and assembled on site to ensure a flawless
fit. What they take away in price and convenience, however,
seamless gutters tend to give back with many years of
outstanding function.
Do a little research and look into some of the major home
wares stores to ensure you're getting the proper size, great
and color for your home’s exterior. You may also want to speak
with an expert about ways to reduce your cost – sometimes
using vinyl instead of aluminum, for instance, can be a boon
to your bottom line. Choose well and you should expect nothing
less than outstanding function and a handsome appearance many
years into the future.
How to Find a Leak in a
Roof
Most people do not imagine how difficult it can be to locate a
leak in a roof. Watch any old cartoon and the culprit is
immediately apparent – a simple hole, occasionally big enough
to stick your head through. Not so with roof leaks in the real
world – most such problems only become apparent after the
water has flowed, hugged soaked and spread its way across
countless building materials long before it becomes manifest
in the home. That means the spot where your ceiling is
dripping can be dozens of horizontal feet from the original
source of the problem, with much of that path hidden inside
walls and casings.
If you have ever tried to head up into the attic to locate a
roof leak, you probably encountered a common problem. Although
many such leaks occur within the field of shingles or shakes,
many hide in places you simply cannot find from inside the
house. Many of the most common include flashings, those
architectural features designed to join roofing to the other
parts of your home. Of course they may also be located within
skylights, chimneys or ice dams, making it difficult to
eliminate anything right off the bat.
The good news is that water is a substance without intent or
cognition, meaning you can usually make sense of its path with
a little rudimentary thought. Follow the grade of gravity and
try to imagine where it will flow and it’s often easier than
you think to backtrack from a visible water source. Many
experts recommend paying careful attention to rafters and
exposed pipes as well, as any of these can “carry” water
significant distances without appearing wet to the untrained
eye. A little detective work can go a long way to toward
better-informed predictions, saving you considerable time and
frustration in the process.
Roof leaks can also be inferred a number of ways. If you live
in an area with sporadic rain, lengthy dry periods may
actually provide an excellent opportunity to look for the
telltale signs of discoloration that may indicate mildew.
Darkened ceiling tiles, moldy corners and damp insulation may
remain for weeks following a significant storm, offering you
something like a roadmap to the source of the leak. You may
also want to pay particular attention to material
intersections such as dormers that may be hiding conduits for
water just out of sight.
That said, the most reliable way to locate a roof leak is also
the most intuitive – with water. Checking during a storm will
do little to isolate the problem, but you may be able to mimic
its effect with a simple garden hose. Secure yourself safely
to the roof and be sure to wear proper apparel for this kind
of experiment, however – roofing materials are often designed
expressly to grow slick with rain. Start at the outer edges of
your roof and be systematic about the order in which you
provide coverage. The last thing you want to do is point the
water toward the roof’s apex, as gravity will quickly render
that experiment useless! Move up slowly and in sections, being
careful to give each test time to seep into your home.
Barring the effects of a major storm, your most likely culprit
will be the roof flashings. These come in a wide variety of
shapes, sizes and functions, with different designs and
materials dedicated to each type of roofing intersection.
Although plumbing vent flashings are the most common source of
leaks, you may be able to make further progress with a close
examination of the furnace flashings and wall step flashings
as well. It’s not uncommon for repairs or poor craftsmanship
to leave such openings unprotected from the elements, creating
the perfect conditions for a chronic and mysterious leak.
The good news is that most roof leaks can be repaired quickly
and inexpensively. Depending on the source of the problem and
how much you want to spend, nearly every leak can be plugged,
patched or flashed in a matter of minutes. Check with the hose
or wait until the next rain, and you may be astonished to
discover how flawlessly such piecemeal measures work. That
said, if the problem lies in the shingles themselves and seem
to be occurring with increasing frequency, it may be time to
have an inspector out to the home for a better sense of your
options.
How to Shingle a Roof
Roofs have a tendency to erode and fail over time no matter
how carefully they are maintained. It is a simple fact of
suburban and rural living that the elements can be punishing
over the course of many years, particularly if you live in a
four-season climate that comes with ice and snow, rain, and
pounding sun. Although you may be able to repair early
problems on an individual basis, the time will eventually come
when the entire roof no longer affords your home the
protection it deserves. When this moment arrives, you have a
choice – call the pros or do it yourself.
It may not surprise you to learn that most homeowners hire
roof contractors to completely shingle a new roof. After all,
working up high without proper training and protection can be
terribly dangerous. If you follow some basic guidelines and
educate yourself about the process, however, you may be able
to save an extraordinary amount of money by heading up there
and laying those shingles yourself. Many homeowners report
they were astonished to discover how straightforward this job
really is, particularly given the exorbitant fees most roofing
professionals command.
The first step is to decide what kind of shingles you want.
Although standard grey asphalt and fiberglass are the most
common types, you can roof your home with anything from cedar
shakes to stately slate. Each comes with its own price tag and
attendant headaches, however, and most roofing professionals
agree it is far easier to work with the inexpensive asphalt
varieties than anything else. Bear in mind as well that
although the same basic principles apply regardless, certain
roofing materials also demand you use a number of expensive
tools that may eliminate any advantage associated with the DIY
route.
Next you want to consider and plan for optimum safety. Roofing
projects are fraught with danger, and the last thing you want
is for a devastating injury to put you out of commission and
effectively increase the cost of that repair by an order of
magnitude. Wear proper footwear, avoid heading up during wet
or cold weather, and be sure to wait until the morning dew has
burned away during the summer months. You also want to secure
the ladder tightly at both ends and consider having someone
around to help in the event of a fall. Finally it is essential
to choose your pathways so they avoid power lines and TV
antennae – a nasty shock can be every bit as hazardous as a
fall.
The most important step for most roofing endeavors is to clear
the existing roof to make room for a level nailing surface.
Usually this means repairing the roof to the point where it
can support nailing strips, though you may have to remove
everything altogether if multiple layers of shingles have
rendered the roof structurally unsound. Once you have the
proper template, you can begin measuring feathering strips to
compensate for any gradations in slope and pitch – often small
corrections like these can make a big difference down the
line.
Next comes the ice and water shield, felt and drip edges – all
basic materials designed to create a better bond and stronger
protection from the elements. Although the ice and water
shields aren’t strictly necessary, they will inevitably extend
the life of your roof by accounting for leaks, “soaks” and
driving wind that might otherwise penetrate the shingle field.
The felt should be laid in rows and becomes especially
important for certain grades of asphalt shingle – be sure and
ask at your local home wars store whether you need to take
additional steps here for a secure fit.
Now you are ready for the shingles. Start at the bottom corner
and work your way up in even rows, being sure to check for
proper ventilation and spacing throughout. Each 1-3/4” nail
should be covered by the one just above, and you may want to
add roofing cement to each nail to ensure it doesn’t loosen
over time. Once the flat surfaces are covered, you want to pay
particular attention to any valleys as well. Many experts
recommend adding metal flashing down the ridge of the valley
and building in some flexibility as well, as different
sections of roof tend to shift over time.
Basic Shingle Repair
Don't procrastinate when it comes to replacing or repairing
your roof's shingles – if you do, any damage that already
exists will only worsen over time and make future repair jobs
a nightmare.
Asphalt shingles are the most common used in roofing today, so
this article will focus on repairing this type of roofing
material. Deteriorating shingles are usually curled or loose,
especially after a strong windstorm. At the points where
shingles overlap, flashing may also sustain damage.
For loose shingles, lift carefully and then apply plastic
roofing cement beneath the shingle to hold it in place.
If you find any small cracks, repair them by with roofing
cement – trowel it into the cracks and wipe up any smears with
a cloth dipped in solvent.
Patch torn and split shingles with roofing cement and then
secure with roofing nails.
Shingles that are damaged beyond repair need to be replaced
entirely. All you have to do is slip a flat shovel underneath
the shingle above the damaged one to loosen the nails. Pull
the nails out and take off the ruined shingle.
Cut a new piece of shingle and place in the desired spot,
after measuring for a good fit, of course – align with
adjacent shingles.
The best method is to drive the new nails into the holes left
by the old shingle – if this is not possible, simply use
roofing cement to seal up the old holes.
Coat the nailheads with roofing cement and press the upper
course into place, weighting it down if required.
Metal flashing is a
good way to reinforce severely damaged shingles if you can't
get your hands on any replacement shingles. Measure and cut a
piece of metal slightly smaller than the shingle and slip it
underneath. Then nail the metal to the roof. Place a coating
of roofing cement behind the old shingle and press into
position.
Basic upkeep of your roof will ensure its longevity over the
years and keep the inside of your home safe and dry. It will
save you a lot of trouble over the long run and keep the
exterior of your house in good shape.
How To Clean Your
Gutters
Keeping your gutters clean and free of debris is important to
ensure water stays away from your house's exterior and
foundation walls. It's recommended to clear the gutters out
twice a year – in the spring before heavy rains begin and late
in the fall after all the leaves have fallen off the trees.
Essentially, proper maintenance of your home's gutters entails
removing debris that can clog the system, looking for rust,
corrosion, and low spots that may be collecting water.
To properly clean your gutters, follow these simple steps:
Remove debris. The most important task is to get rid of any
debris that may be clogging the gutters and downspouts.
Clogged gutters don't allow moisture to move through the
system, which can cause rust, rot, and corrosion. To remove
debris, simply fasten a metal angle to the end of a long pole
or board and rake the material toward you. Then use a wire
brush to scrape anything that's left over.
Using a hose, wash the gutters. Anything that's left should be
washed out with a hose starting at the high end of each run or
in the middle of runs with spouts at both ends.
Get rid of any remaining blockage. Anything blocking the
gutters can be removed with water pressure or a plumber's
snake. If this doesn't work you'll have to take apart the
downspouts to remove any blockage.
Scrape the gutter. If you discover rust inside of the gutter,
scrape it clean with a wire brush and apply a thin coat of
roofing cement.
Wood gutters: sand and seal. If your home has wood gutters,
they may require sanding down to the bare wood to remove any
problems. Then apply linseed oil, leave time for it to dry,
and apply 2 coats of roofing cement.
Again, standing water is what causes most problems with a
home's gutters. Even if you follow proper maintenance
procedures, standing water can be an issue if the gutters
don't slope properly toward their outlets. To check if your
gutters slope, pour water into the gutter and watch where the
water goes.
If something is wrong with your gutters and they do not slope
downward, you can eliminate sags by lifting the gutter a
little and repairing loose hangers, or bending the hanger up
with some pliers. You can also install another hanger if need
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