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Basic Home Faucet Repair

Anyone who has dealt with a leaky faucet knows firsthand what a nuisance it can be. If the problem isn’t the constant sound of dripping, it may just as well be the considerable damage consistently flowing water can cause to your sink’s basin. Address both these problems and you are still left with the most maddening of all – wasted water than can add up quickly in just a few months. The good news is that fixing a broken faucet is usually quite simple to do, and all you need to get started is a few basic tools and a rudimentary knowledge of the four different faucet types.

By far the most common type of faucet is also the oldest: compression faucets. These work, unsurprisingly, by applying pressure to the valve in the form of a rubber washer. As you turn the handles, a screw drives the rubber washer into the space to create a tight seal. The problem is that so much mechanical duress will inevitably compromise the integrity of any washer, leaving you with an incomplete seal. The result? Leaking that cannot be ceased no matter how hard you turn.

Thankfully, compression faucets are among the easiest types to repair. Before you begin, you will want to shut off water to the area and clog the drain with a towel or cloth – this keeps screws and other parts from slipping into your home’s plumbing system. Most homes employ simple handles that can be unscrewed manually, giving you instant access to the stem, washer and valve seat. Look for the part that has eroded over time – this is most likely a washer, though especially old homes may use twine or thread instead. Check the size and replace it with a matching part, and you should expect a flawless seal for many years to follow.

Cartridge faucets may be simpler still. So named because they supplant the washer with a formed square stopper, cartridge faucets offer roughly the same advantages and disadvantages of an all-in-one stereo: you don’t need to worry about mixing and matching components, but when one goes, the whole device may be shot. Because the cartridge and stem are fused into a single piece, you will likely need to replace the entire assembly once the seal has eroded over time. Be wary of getting the right gauge and wrong configuration, however – cartridge faucets come in one-handled varieties that require you line up both holes exactly.

Disc faucets are growing more common as homeowners seek smooth and elegant designs that can blend temperatures with ease. All disc faucets use two discs that may be polymer or ceramic, and these glide across one another as you twist the handle. Because they rely less on friction and more on precision design to open and close seals, disc faucets are often less prone to the kind of wear you get from more traditional washer designs. Even ceramics, however will eventually succumb to water, meaning you may need to replace one or both discs in the event of a leak. Loosen the handle with its set screw and remove the escutcheon cap for easy access. Check the O-rings and discs thoroughly for any signs of cracking or wear, looking carefully for hairline fractures. If either disc is compromised, you will likely need to replace the entire cylinder – not cheap, but hardly a disaster.

The final faucet variety, known as the ball faucet, is easy to diagnose. These may be the most prone to leaks for the simple reason that they encourage a full range of motion with countless small parts. The good news is that it’s exceedingly simple to get inside and isolate the problem – loosening one set screw will open the column. Try tightening the locking collar first – often this can become loose from so much motion. If the leak persists, you will need to get at the ball itself by popping off the domed cap and removing the cam. Check the ball for signs of dirt or wear, and replace it if age seems to have taken its toll. In nine out of ten cases, your problems will vanish immediately.
 

Guide to Garbage Disposal Ratings

Garbage disposals are becoming more and more popular. Although the device has been around for decades, it didn’t really become standard fare in most American homes until the 70’s and 80’s, when advances in water pressure and sewage treatment made such waste disposal methods more practical. Today garbage disposals come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and power ratings, including models that use ceramic blades and other design features in lieu of more traditional canisters. If you’re looking for a quick way to distinguish one from the next and choose the best model for your home, it pays to understand what all those numbers really mean.

The most essential component in any garbage disposal purchase is power. Some home units come rates at one-half horsepower, but more modern kitchens generally start with three-quarters HP and go up from there. What you’re paying for with power is essentially the machine’s ability to pulverize stubborn bones and other hardy materials, sparing your trash compactor and giving an organic shot to the sewage. This rating is especially important if you have a septic tank, as finer-grained slurry may be required to meet code and keep your system in working order. Although more power usually translates directly into stronger pulverization, it is worth noting that that size and speed of the blades can make a significant difference as well.

Another major factor that inevitably influences homeowner decisions is the decibel level of the machine. Olden times saw garbage disposals that could easily top out well above the sound of a screaming human, but today’s models are thankfully more demure. Look for sound shielding and anti-vibration features in particular if you want to keep the noise level to a low hum, particularly if you have invested in a larger device. It may also be worth looking into ways to reinforce the cabinetry for a tighter seal around the disposal.

And speaking of cabinetry, it is essential to get a machine that can fit comfortably where it belongs. Be careful to leave room for pipes, hoses and electrical connections, as these can quickly fill up that valuable real estate beneath your sink. Even if you have sufficient room for a monster machine, it may not be worth getting something bigger than you need – 25 to 40 ounces in the grind chamber is plenty for most homes. Indeed, anything more could tax your sewage system more than it was designed to handle, creating potential leaks and obstructions in the walls of your home.

Once you have the size and power rating selected, you want to look at speed. Along with power, the revolutions per minute (rpm) of the blades are definitive when it comes to grinding ability. Although 1400 rpm may be good enough for fruit and veggies, you will most likely need to upgrade to a faster induction motor for stubborn foodstuffs such as bones, coffee grounds and seeds. Some of the top units reach speeds of 1800 rpm, affording your kitchen something like an all-purpose liquefier for every material you use.

Finally it is important to consider the amount of energy you can expect to invest on a monthly basis. This rating impacts your bills and the environment in equal measure, so it may be worth doing some comparison shopping to ensure you have bought a more efficient machine. Simple features such as reversible blades can help clear obstructions in a hurry, saving you the frustration of drawing tremendous current without actually getting anywhere. One final concern for homeowners trying to live green – larger grind chambers usually require more running water to keep the walls clean and free of odors, so a smaller unit may suit your principles better.

Once you understand the different parts and ratings associated with a garbage disposal, you should be able to buy an appropriate choice. Stick with continuous feed models, ideally those with an air switch, if you want to protect your family’s safety well into the future. And be sure that power source comes with a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). Often by visiting a home wares store and “kicking the tires” on several models, you can get a better sense of which operation type suits you best.
 

How to Clear a Drain Clog

Let’s face it: clogged drains are a fact of life. Nearly everyone has dealt with the revulsion and frustration that comes with a stopped-up shower or bathtub. More than mere inconveniences, such clogged drains may actually represent a very real health risk. Standing water is one of the most active breeding grounds for mold, mildew and fungus, and pathogens like these can easily compromise your immune system. No wonder so many homeowners come online in search of swift and decisive action to take against clogged drains. The results often surprise them.

An entire cottage industry has sprung up around iconic brands like Drano to convince homeowners that a chemical solution is best. Ask any plumber, however, and you will most likely hear just the opposite – caustic chemicals like these can be slow, harmful to the air and destructive to your pipes. Because they are designed as free-roaming solvents, it’s not unusual for chemical drain compounds to release harmful byproducts into oceans and streams as well. Thankfully, simple mechanical solutions are usually all you need to rid your home of a stubborn clog for good.

If the clog is close to the mouth of the drain, you may be able to remove it by hand. Many homeowners assume a stubborn clog must have taken root deep in the bowels of their plumbing systems, but often a bright flashlight and a screwdriver are all you need to get at the problem. Needle nose pliers or a coat hanger can remove the clog from there, giving you ready access to examine it more closely. If hair, soap or anything else is at fault, consider changing your protective screens more often. In the case of cooking grease, you may want to run the garbage disposal a little longer in the future.

If the clog is too far or too stubborn to remove by hand, a good plunger is the next step. Plungers work precisely the way they sound – by “pulling” clogs free using powerful suction. If your plunging creates squeaking noises or an imperfect seal, add more water to the basin before you resume. Any air that makes its way into the bell of the plunger will render it useless. Try a few hard thrusts and see if the water begins to drain – often you don’t need to produce the clog, as sending it downstream has the same effect.

If the plunger fails as well, it’s time to break out the heavy artillery: a plumber’s snake. The snake is a steel cable that can be threaded, turned and otherwise manipulated deep into the pipe to get at the clog itself. You may need to remove the overflow plate to get this kind of access to the pipes, but the good news is that you can expect a quick job from there. Depending on the shape and stiffness of the snake, you should be able to break up the obstruction and send it downstream by feel alone.

Although the snake works nearly all the time, you may find some clogs that resist even the most concerted efforts at manual repair. These are the rare cases where you may need to call a plumbing professional. Beware, however: anytime you hire contractors to go into the walls of your home, you are in for a lengthy and expensive process that may require additional visits to resolve. An experienced plumber may be able to solve the problem using a heavier gauge snake, but it’s wise to plan ahead and get an estimate should more aggressive tactics be required.

Of course the easiest way to deal with clogged drains is to simply avoid them in the first place. Fine screens, water softeners and common sense can often help you greatly reduce the incidence of major clogs. A growing number of homeowners even use boiling water, baking soda and vinegar once a month to dissolve soap scum, grease and other tenacious compounds. If you notice your water flow slowing, try preventive measures such as these before you have to resort to emergency measures. Often with regular maintenance and careful habits, you can keep your drains and pipes in pristine condition for years at a stretch.
 

How to Install a Garbage Disposal

Garbage disposals have become increasingly essential to the way we live. As meal times grow ever more hectic and homeowners find themselves making regular use of leftovers, it seems like we rely more and more on this simple device to keep our sinks and plumbing clear. If the system fails or begins operating at something less than peak efficiency, the resulting blockages can quickly lead to leaks, odors and sitting water – ideal breeding grounds for the kind of mold and mildew regularly associated with poor health. Thankfully, installing a new garbage disposal is far easier than you may imagine, meaning you could save hundreds on the expense and inconvenience of having a plumber in your home.

Before you begin, however, you will want to select a device with the proper power rating for your wiring. Too many homeowners naturally assume bigger is better with machines such as these, when the truth is that a poorly matched device can quickly overwhelm the circuit. Stick with the recommended wattage you have on your existing garbage disposal – or in the case of a first-time installation, check the manufacturer’s rating first. You always want to avoid choosing anything that requires more water pressure than your pipes have to give – inadequate saturation can lead to dry operation, which may cause the machine to break down or even catch fire.

Once you have the right product in hand, you want to cut off the water to this part of the house and remove the entire drain assembly. Most plumbers keep a bucket on hand to catch any errant leaks that may be hiding in the kinks of your pipe, particularly if the cabinet below is prone to mildew. Remove the flange, washers and trap, being careful to use blunt tools if your sink has delicate chrome or ceramic parts. Once everything is clear, you are ready top attach the mounting assembly that comes with your new garbage disposal.

Attaching the mounting assembly is a fast and simple process for most sinks, especially with newer models that include detailed instructions for the flange and mounting ring. Most brands simply snap into place, though a few may require some additional force or even three screws for a solid fit. Once everything is in place, you ay also want to turn the flange to see if you can get a tighter seal – a few designs are intentionally asymmetrical to allow for subtle variations in the sink basin.

This is a good time to double-check the S-trap or P-trap under your sink, as unwanted waste may get in the way while you attach disposal to mounting assembly. If the pipes are clear and the flange is secure, you are ready to remove the discharge tube and fasten the mounting rings together. It can be tough to get purchase in such an unusual position, so consider getting a mechanical screwdriver to relieve your back and shoulders from excess straining. Once the screws are in place, you can tighten the ring itself to ensure the metal pieces are lying perfectly flush.

Attaching the discharge tube to your waste line is the easiest part of the process. Line the edges up and be sure to leave appropriate clearance in the case of vibration. Garbage disposals are designed to minimize such forces with total symmetry, but it’s not unusual for age and wear to render them unusually active. Tighten the brackets on the discharge tube and check the safety on the bottom of your unit. If everything seems aligned and ready to go, you can attach the power source, turn the water back on and run a quick test.

One final note: garbage disposals draw a tremendous amount of power, and keeping such machinery in close proximity to running water may pose a fire hazard. Check with a licensed, bonded electrician if you need to run a power line directly from the wall – often you can bypass such pricey installation costs simply by adding a certified ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) in the outlet you use. You may also want to keep the water running for a minimum of 45 seconds after each use of the disposal, as clearing this slurry effectively is the surest way to maintain the health of the machine.
 

Tips for Common Plumbing Problems

Plumbing may be the only delivery system in modern times that actually requires an unbroken network of pipes. While this offer tremendous convenience and a ready stream of water, it also means there are countless places where the system can break down. From leaky faucets to burst boilers, such problems tend to run the gamut in terms of price and safety. Thankfully, the vast majority of issues such as these can be repaired pretty easily if you understand some basics about home plumbing in general. Often all it takes to finish the job is a rudimentary toolkit and the will to learn.

Nearly every home plumbing system operates according to the same basic principles. If you can master the details of valves, fittings, washers and ring clamps, you should be able to address anything that arises with comparative ease. One of the most common mistakes made by enterprising homeowners is forgetting to perform their due diligence before the repairs begin, however, so do yourself a favor and cut off water supplies, create drainage conduits and protect nearby items from spraying water. Although the vast majority of home plumbing jobs do not involve water under significant pressure, acute events such as bursts and leaks can destroy the affected area.

Faucets are the most common source of headaches for homeowners, and with good reason. Although the technology has exited for over a century, most basic home faucets continue to be manufactured according to the individual whims of each company. That means few standardized protocols exist. You should be able to make progress simply by identifying which kind of faucet your home has, however. Of the four basic varieties – compression, cartridge, disc and ball – compression faucets continue to dominate. Leaks are more common in this configuration as well, for reasons that will presently become clear.

Start by unscrewing the handle and removing the escutcheon using a screwdriver. Beware: if your plumbing fixture is made of chrome or ceramic, you want to exercise caution to ensure you don’t scratch an expensive finish in the process! Most likely you can pull out the stem now fairly easily, though there is such a thing as a handle puller for unusually old or corroded plumbing. Now that you can get at the washer, try prying it off the stem to see if it’s still intact. This is by far the most common source of trouble for compression faucets, and usually an inexpensive replacement will do the trick. If the washer seems fine, the problem may also lie in your faucet seat – any mineral buildup can lead to a broken seal, rendering your faucet leaky and unreliable.

Similar steps can be applied to the other major faucet types without much variation. The notable exception is disc faucets, which are often self-contained and thus will not easily yield to exploration. If you suspect a disk may be cracked or chipped, you may be able to use a good flashlight and some food coloring to expose the fissures. In the case of broken discs, it’s wisest to simply replace the entire assembly and get something made of hardier materials for the future.

Of course plumbing problems may extend well beyond your home’s faucets. Although many such issues will require a plumber to head into the walls, you may be able to fix some of the simpler problems that arise. One of the most frequent is the running toilet, a mainstay of home ownership since time immemorial. Usually this problem can be fixed simply by replacing a faulty flapper or ball assembly, though some cases will require you to clean mineral deposits from the tank itself. Vinegar, boiling water and baking soda usually does the trick.

Finally, if your pipes themselves have become frozen, you may be able to save them before a rupture occurs. If the pipes are hiding in the walls, you may simply be able to use a space heater and some patience. For exposed external pipes, a simple hair dryer will usually do the trick provided the area is clear of dangerous pooling water. If a burst has spawned you have a stubborn leak that is attacking the struts and beams or your home’s foundation, however, it is time to call the professionals without delay.Basic Home Faucet Repair

Anyone who has dealt with a leaky faucet knows firsthand what a nuisance it can be. If the problem isn’t the constant sound of dripping, it may just as well be the considerable damage consistently flowing water can cause to your sink’s basin. Address both these problems and you are still left with the most maddening of all – wasted water than can add up quickly in just a few months. The good news is that fixing a broken faucet is usually quite simple to do, and all you need to get started is a few basic tools and a rudimentary knowledge of the four different faucet types.

By far the most common type of faucet is also the oldest: compression faucets. These work, unsurprisingly, by applying pressure to the valve in the form of a rubber washer. As you turn the handles, a screw drives the rubber washer into the space to create a tight seal. The problem is that so much mechanical duress will inevitably compromise the integrity of any washer, leaving you with an incomplete seal. The result? Leaking that cannot be ceased no matter how hard you turn.

Thankfully, compression faucets are among the easiest types to repair. Before you begin, you will want to shut off water to the area and clog the drain with a towel or cloth – this keeps screws and other parts from slipping into your home’s plumbing system. Most homes employ simple handles that can be unscrewed manually, giving you instant access to the stem, washer and valve seat. Look for the part that has eroded over time – this is most likely a washer, though especially old homes may use twine or thread instead. Check the size and replace it with a matching part, and you should expect a flawless seal for many years to follow.

Cartridge faucets may be simpler still. So named because they supplant the washer with a formed square stopper, cartridge faucets offer roughly the same advantages and disadvantages of an all-in-one stereo: you don’t need to worry about mixing and matching components, but when one goes, the whole device may be shot. Because the cartridge and stem are fused into a single piece, you will likely need to replace the entire assembly once the seal has eroded over time. Be wary of getting the right gauge and wrong configuration, however – cartridge faucets come in one-handled varieties that require you line up both holes exactly.

Disc faucets are growing more common as homeowners seek smooth and elegant designs that can blend temperatures with ease. All disc faucets use two discs that may be polymer or ceramic, and these glide across one another as you twist the handle. Because they rely less on friction and more on precision design to open and close seals, disc faucets are often less prone to the kind of wear you get from more traditional washer designs. Even ceramics, however will eventually succumb to water, meaning you may need to replace one or both discs in the event of a leak. Loosen the handle with its set screw and remove the escutcheon cap for easy access. Check the O-rings and discs thoroughly for any signs of cracking or wear, looking carefully for hairline fractures. If either disc is compromised, you will likely need to replace the entire cylinder – not cheap, but hardly a disaster.

The final faucet variety, known as the ball faucet, is easy to diagnose. These may be the most prone to leaks for the simple reason that they encourage a full range of motion with countless small parts. The good news is that it’s exceedingly simple to get inside and isolate the problem – loosening one set screw will open the column. Try tightening the locking collar first – often this can become loose from so much motion. If the leak persists, you will need to get at the ball itself by popping off the domed cap and removing the cam. Check the ball for signs of dirt or wear, and replace it if age seems to have taken its toll. In nine out of ten cases, your problems will vanish immediately.
 

Guide to Garbage Disposal Ratings

Garbage disposals are becoming more and more popular. Although the device has been around for decades, it didn’t really become standard fare in most American homes until the 70’s and 80’s, when advances in water pressure and sewage treatment made such waste disposal methods more practical. Today garbage disposals come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and power ratings, including models that use ceramic blades and other design features in lieu of more traditional canisters. If you’re looking for a quick way to distinguish one from the next and choose the best model for your home, it pays to understand what all those numbers really mean.

The most essential component in any garbage disposal purchase is power. Some home units come rates at one-half horsepower, but more modern kitchens generally start with three-quarters HP and go up from there. What you’re paying for with power is essentially the machine’s ability to pulverize stubborn bones and other hardy materials, sparing your trash compactor and giving an organic shot to the sewage. This rating is especially important if you have a septic tank, as finer-grained slurry may be required to meet code and keep your system in working order. Although more power usually translates directly into stronger pulverization, it is worth noting that that size and speed of the blades can make a significant difference as well.

Another major factor that inevitably influences homeowner decisions is the decibel level of the machine. Olden times saw garbage disposals that could easily top out well above the sound of a screaming human, but today’s models are thankfully more demure. Look for sound shielding and anti-vibration features in particular if you want to keep the noise level to a low hum, particularly if you have invested in a larger device. It may also be worth looking into ways to reinforce the cabinetry for a tighter seal around the disposal.

And speaking of cabinetry, it is essential to get a machine that can fit comfortably where it belongs. Be careful to leave room for pipes, hoses and electrical connections, as these can quickly fill up that valuable real estate beneath your sink. Even if you have sufficient room for a monster machine, it may not be worth getting something bigger than you need – 25 to 40 ounces in the grind chamber is plenty for most homes. Indeed, anything more could tax your sewage system more than it was designed to handle, creating potential leaks and obstructions in the walls of your home.

Once you have the size and power rating selected, you want to look at speed. Along with power, the revolutions per minute (rpm) of the blades are definitive when it comes to grinding ability. Although 1400 rpm may be good enough for fruit and veggies, you will most likely need to upgrade to a faster induction motor for stubborn foodstuffs such as bones, coffee grounds and seeds. Some of the top units reach speeds of 1800 rpm, affording your kitchen something like an all-purpose liquefier for every material you use.

Finally it is important to consider the amount of energy you can expect to invest on a monthly basis. This rating impacts your bills and the environment in equal measure, so it may be worth doing some comparison shopping to ensure you have bought a more efficient machine. Simple features such as reversible blades can help clear obstructions in a hurry, saving you the frustration of drawing tremendous current without actually getting anywhere. One final concern for homeowners trying to live green – larger grind chambers usually require more running water to keep the walls clean and free of odors, so a smaller unit may suit your principles better.

Once you understand the different parts and ratings associated with a garbage disposal, you should be able to buy an appropriate choice. Stick with continuous feed models, ideally those with an air switch, if you want to protect your family’s safety well into the future. And be sure that power source comes with a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). Often by visiting a home wares store and “kicking the tires” on several models, you can get a better sense of which operation type suits you best.
 

How to Clear a Drain Clog

Let’s face it: clogged drains are a fact of life. Nearly everyone has dealt with the revulsion and frustration that comes with a stopped-up shower or bathtub. More than mere inconveniences, such clogged drains may actually represent a very real health risk. Standing water is one of the most active breeding grounds for mold, mildew and fungus, and pathogens like these can easily compromise your immune system. No wonder so many homeowners come online in search of swift and decisive action to take against clogged drains. The results often surprise them.

An entire cottage industry has sprung up around iconic brands like Drano to convince homeowners that a chemical solution is best. Ask any plumber, however, and you will most likely hear just the opposite – caustic chemicals like these can be slow, harmful to the air and destructive to your pipes. Because they are designed as free-roaming solvents, it’s not unusual for chemical drain compounds to release harmful byproducts into oceans and streams as well. Thankfully, simple mechanical solutions are usually all you need to rid your home of a stubborn clog for good.

If the clog is close to the mouth of the drain, you may be able to remove it by hand. Many homeowners assume a stubborn clog must have taken root deep in the bowels of their plumbing systems, but often a bright flashlight and a screwdriver are all you need to get at the problem. Needle nose pliers or a coat hanger can remove the clog from there, giving you ready access to examine it more closely. If hair, soap or anything else is at fault, consider changing your protective screens more often. In the case of cooking grease, you may want to run the garbage disposal a little longer in the future.

If the clog is too far or too stubborn to remove by hand, a good plunger is the next step. Plungers work precisely the way they sound – by “pulling” clogs free using powerful suction. If your plunging creates squeaking noises or an imperfect seal, add more water to the basin before you resume. Any air that makes its way into the bell of the plunger will render it useless. Try a few hard thrusts and see if the water begins to drain – often you don’t need to produce the clog, as sending it downstream has the same effect.

If the plunger fails as well, it’s time to break out the heavy artillery: a plumber’s snake. The snake is a steel cable that can be threaded, turned and otherwise manipulated deep into the pipe to get at the clog itself. You may need to remove the overflow plate to get this kind of access to the pipes, but the good news is that you can expect a quick job from there. Depending on the shape and stiffness of the snake, you should be able to break up the obstruction and send it downstream by feel alone.

Although the snake works nearly all the time, you may find some clogs that resist even the most concerted efforts at manual repair. These are the rare cases where you may need to call a plumbing professional. Beware, however: anytime you hire contractors to go into the walls of your home, you are in for a lengthy and expensive process that may require additional visits to resolve. An experienced plumber may be able to solve the problem using a heavier gauge snake, but it’s wise to plan ahead and get an estimate should more aggressive tactics be required.

Of course the easiest way to deal with clogged drains is to simply avoid them in the first place. Fine screens, water softeners and common sense can often help you greatly reduce the incidence of major clogs. A growing number of homeowners even use boiling water, baking soda and vinegar once a month to dissolve soap scum, grease and other tenacious compounds. If you notice your water flow slowing, try preventive measures such as these before you have to resort to emergency measures. Often with regular maintenance and careful habits, you can keep your drains and pipes in pristine condition for years at a stretch.
 

How to Install a Garbage Disposal

Garbage disposals have become increasingly essential to the way we live. As meal times grow ever more hectic and homeowners find themselves making regular use of leftovers, it seems like we rely more and more on this simple device to keep our sinks and plumbing clear. If the system fails or begins operating at something less than peak efficiency, the resulting blockages can quickly lead to leaks, odors and sitting water – ideal breeding grounds for the kind of mold and mildew regularly associated with poor health. Thankfully, installing a new garbage disposal is far easier than you may imagine, meaning you could save hundreds on the expense and inconvenience of having a plumber in your home.

Before you begin, however, you will want to select a device with the proper power rating for your wiring. Too many homeowners naturally assume bigger is better with machines such as these, when the truth is that a poorly matched device can quickly overwhelm the circuit. Stick with the recommended wattage you have on your existing garbage disposal – or in the case of a first-time installation, check the manufacturer’s rating first. You always want to avoid choosing anything that requires more water pressure than your pipes have to give – inadequate saturation can lead to dry operation, which may cause the machine to break down or even catch fire.

Once you have the right product in hand, you want to cut off the water to this part of the house and remove the entire drain assembly. Most plumbers keep a bucket on hand to catch any errant leaks that may be hiding in the kinks of your pipe, particularly if the cabinet below is prone to mildew. Remove the flange, washers and trap, being careful to use blunt tools if your sink has delicate chrome or ceramic parts. Once everything is clear, you are ready top attach the mounting assembly that comes with your new garbage disposal.

Attaching the mounting assembly is a fast and simple process for most sinks, especially with newer models that include detailed instructions for the flange and mounting ring. Most brands simply snap into place, though a few may require some additional force or even three screws for a solid fit. Once everything is in place, you ay also want to turn the flange to see if you can get a tighter seal – a few designs are intentionally asymmetrical to allow for subtle variations in the sink basin.

This is a good time to double-check the S-trap or P-trap under your sink, as unwanted waste may get in the way while you attach disposal to mounting assembly. If the pipes are clear and the flange is secure, you are ready to remove the discharge tube and fasten the mounting rings together. It can be tough to get purchase in such an unusual position, so consider getting a mechanical screwdriver to relieve your back and shoulders from excess straining. Once the screws are in place, you can tighten the ring itself to ensure the metal pieces are lying perfectly flush.

Attaching the discharge tube to your waste line is the easiest part of the process. Line the edges up and be sure to leave appropriate clearance in the case of vibration. Garbage disposals are designed to minimize such forces with total symmetry, but it’s not unusual for age and wear to render them unusually active. Tighten the brackets on the discharge tube and check the safety on the bottom of your unit. If everything seems aligned and ready to go, you can attach the power source, turn the water back on and run a quick test.

One final note: garbage disposals draw a tremendous amount of power, and keeping such machinery in close proximity to running water may pose a fire hazard. Check with a licensed, bonded electrician if you need to run a power line directly from the wall – often you can bypass such pricey installation costs simply by adding a certified ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) in the outlet you use. You may also want to keep the water running for a minimum of 45 seconds after each use of the disposal, as clearing this slurry effectively is the surest way to maintain the health of the machine.
 

Tips for Common Plumbing Problems

Plumbing may be the only delivery system in modern times that actually requires an unbroken network of pipes. While this offer tremendous convenience and a ready stream of water, it also means there are countless places where the system can break down. From leaky faucets to burst boilers, such problems tend to run the gamut in terms of price and safety. Thankfully, the vast majority of issues such as these can be repaired pretty easily if you understand some basics about home plumbing in general. Often all it takes to finish the job is a rudimentary toolkit and the will to learn.

Nearly every home plumbing system operates according to the same basic principles. If you can master the details of valves, fittings, washers and ring clamps, you should be able to address anything that arises with comparative ease. One of the most common mistakes made by enterprising homeowners is forgetting to perform their due diligence before the repairs begin, however, so do yourself a favor and cut off water supplies, create drainage conduits and protect nearby items from spraying water. Although the vast majority of home plumbing jobs do not involve water under significant pressure, acute events such as bursts and leaks can destroy the affected area.

Faucets are the most common source of headaches for homeowners, and with good reason. Although the technology has exited for over a century, most basic home faucets continue to be manufactured according to the individual whims of each company. That means few standardized protocols exist. You should be able to make progress simply by identifying which kind of faucet your home has, however. Of the four basic varieties – compression, cartridge, disc and ball – compression faucets continue to dominate. Leaks are more common in this configuration as well, for reasons that will presently become clear.

Start by unscrewing the handle and removing the escutcheon using a screwdriver. Beware: if your plumbing fixture is made of chrome or ceramic, you want to exercise caution to ensure you don’t scratch an expensive finish in the process! Most likely you can pull out the stem now fairly easily, though there is such a thing as a handle puller for unusually old or corroded plumbing. Now that you can get at the washer, try prying it off the stem to see if it’s still intact. This is by far the most common source of trouble for compression faucets, and usually an inexpensive replacement will do the trick. If the washer seems fine, the problem may also lie in your faucet seat – any mineral buildup can lead to a broken seal, rendering your faucet leaky and unreliable.

Similar steps can be applied to the other major faucet types without much variation. The notable exception is disc faucets, which are often self-contained and thus will not easily yield to exploration. If you suspect a disk may be cracked or chipped, you may be able to use a good flashlight and some food coloring to expose the fissures. In the case of broken discs, it’s wisest to simply replace the entire assembly and get something made of hardier materials for the future.

Of course plumbing problems may extend well beyond your home’s faucets. Although many such issues will require a plumber to head into the walls, you may be able to fix some of the simpler problems that arise. One of the most frequent is the running toilet, a mainstay of home ownership since time immemorial. Usually this problem can be fixed simply by replacing a faulty flapper or ball assembly, though some cases will require you to clean mineral deposits from the tank itself. Vinegar, boiling water and baking soda usually does the trick.

Finally, if your pipes themselves have become frozen, you may be able to save them before a rupture occurs. If the pipes are hiding in the walls, you may simply be able to use a space heater and some patience. For exposed external pipes, a simple hair dryer will usually do the trick provided the area is clear of dangerous pooling water. If a burst has spawned you have a stubborn leak that is attacking the struts and beams or your home’s foundation, however, it is time to call the professionals without delay.