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How To Hang Wallpaper
Learn to hang wallpaper like the pros. DiyFinds provides all
the wallpaper instructions you need from wallpapering tips
including how to buy wallpaper to cutting, pasting and
matching wallpaper patterns and borders.
What
You Need:
Wall prep Materials
You may need some or all of the following: Sandpaper,
Spackling Compound, Putty Knife, Oil Base Primer/Sealer,
Wallpaper Sizing, Paint Roller and Tray, Paint brush,
Wallpaper Remover (chemical enzyme), Drop Cloth
Hanging Materials
You may need some or all of the following: Plumb Bob or Level,
Pencil, Water Tray, Wallpaper Adhesive, Paint Roller and Tray,
Paint Brush, Table or Work Surface, Drop Cloth, Razor Knife,
Scissors, Straight Edge, Smoothing Brush or Tool, Seam Roller,
Sponge or Soft Rag, Bucket, Clean Water.
Before
You Start:
Your walls must be prepared to receive wallcovering. Properly
prepared walls are the foundation for a good job. Most walls
need some prep - even those in new homes. The time you spend
preparing the surface will make the hanging of the wallpaper
easier and will ensure more satisfactory and long lasting
results.
Always check the instructions included with your wallcovering
for the manufacturer's recommendations.
Before beginning any surface prep, remove all nails, screws,
electrical plates and any other wall fixtures. You should also
remove old wallcovering. Make sure the surface is free of any
loose paint, mildew, grease, or stains.
New walls should have a primer/sealer. This seals the wall and
creates a smooth surface. The primer should be white pigmented
because colored primers could bleed through the wallcovering.
Follow the manufacturer's directions for drying and curing,
then apply a wallpaper sizing solution (available at all home
decorating stores) which makes it easier to hang and position
the wallpaper. It also makes it easier to remove it later when
the time comes. Allow the sizing to dry for about 30 minutes
before hanging the wallpaper.
Previously papered walls should be stripped and the walls
should be cleaned with a mild detergent solution or adhesive
remover. Rinse with clear water and let dry. Apply a wallpaper
sizing solution which makes it easier to hang and position
wallpaper. It also makes it easier to remove it later. Note:
It is always best to remove old wallcovering. If this is not
possible, be sure that the old wallcovering is tightly secured
to the wall. Sand the seams, then prime with an oil-base
primer and after drying to manufacturer's recommendations,
apply a wallpaper sizing solution. This will make it easier to
hang and position the wallpaper. It also makes removal easier.
Previously painted walls should have any rough spots scraped
or sanded. Holes and cracks should be filled with spackling
compound. Let dry and sand smooth. Apply an oil-base primer to
spackled areas and let dry. If your walls have glossy paint,
sand with fine grit sandpaper and rinse to remove residue. Let
dry and apply a wallpaper sizing that will make it easier to
hang and position the wallpaper. It also makes it easier to
remove.
Get
Ready, Establish a Plumb line:
Before you begin, read the manufacturer's instructions. Check
to be certain that you received the correct pattern. You
should also make sure that the run numbers or dye-lots are the
same.
You must first establish a plumb line, which is a straight
vertical line. Most homes have settled, and the floors and
ceilings are not always "plumb". This step is very important
and will ensure that you hang the strips straight. You should
repeat this as you begin each new wall. There is more than one
way to establish a plumb line. Here are a few suggestions: Use
a chalked line with a plumb bob (available at home decorating
and hardware stores), or a level and a pencil.
With each of these methods you will need to start by measuring
the width of you wallpaper. Choose an inconspicuous corner,
preferably one behind a door (this is your starting point, and
therefore also your ending point). It is usually best to work
around the room clockwise (or to the right). Measure out from
the starting corner the width of your wallpaper minus ½ inch
and mark the wall (at the top if you are using the plumb bob).
If your room has a definite focal point, such as a fireplace,
you may want to position the first strip so that a prominent
section of the design is centered over the mantel. If so, Hang
this strip first, then work towards your inconspicuous
start/stop point. Then return to the first (focal) strip and
continue in the other direction - again ending at the
start/stop point.
Now, place either the chalk line and plumb bob or the level on
this mark and make a vertical line on the wall. This line is
the edge you will use as a guide to hang your first strip of
wallpaper. Approximately ½ inch will wrap into the corner and
onto the next wall. The wrapped portion is where you will end
up as you work your way around the room.
Measuring:
Walls are seldom exactly the same height all the way around a
room, so you must take several measurements and find the
maximum height. Add four inches (two for the top and two for
the bottom); you'll need this extra for any unevenness and for
trimming at the top and bottom of the walls.
If your wallpaper has a noticeable pattern, you may want to
hold the roll of paper to the wall before cutting the first
strip to determine the best placement of the major design
motif.
Cutting
and Pasting:
You are now ready to cut your first wallpaper strip.
Almost all patterns are designed with basic repeats and
matches. Be sure the second strip matches the first at the top
and bottom before you cut, and remember to leave some extra
length at the top and bottom for trimming. When you hang the
first strip, use the second strip to determine the match point
and then cut the next strip. You will now be ready to hang the
second strip. Continue in this way as you work around the
room.
There
are three basic types of wallcoverings: "Prepasted", "Unpasted",
and "Paste the Wall". Each requires a different hanging
technique.
Prepasted (most wallpaper is prepasted):
Place a water tray half full of water (use the temperature
specified in the directions) at the foot of a work surface or
table.
Loosely roll the wallpaper strip (that you have cut to size)
with the pattern side in.
Dip the strip in the water and leave for the length of time
recommended in the manufacturer's instructions. Do not leave
the wallcovering in the water longer than suggested or the
paste may wash away.
When pulling the strip out of the water, check for any dry
spots and wet them immediately.
Lift the strip out of the water and lay it out paste side up
on the table or other flat work surface.
"Book" the strip by gently folding the pasted side of the
strip to the pasted side. This is best performed by bringing
the ends of the strip to meet in the middle - paste to paste.
Do not crease the folded ends. Leave the strip in this
position for the manufacturer's recommended amount of time -
for a maximum of three minutes. (Booking ensures that the
paste has been given time to activate and allows the wet strip
to expand before being applied to the wall. If the strip is
not given time to expand, it may do so on the wall, which will
cause your seams to overlap.)
The water in the water tray should be changed often (every 2
to 4 strips) to avoid transferring paste residue to the
surface of the wallcovering.
Unpasted:
Lay your first strip of wallcovering on your table or work
surface and use a paint roller or brush to apply the
recommended wallpaper paste. Apply the paste evenly and "book"
the strip by gently folding the ends of the strip to the
middle - pasted side to pasted side. Lightly press the glued
sides together (don't crease).
Paste the Wall:
For this method, simply apply the paste to the wall before
hanging each strip.
Hanging
the Wallcovering:
Time to hang your first strip! Unbook the top of the strip and
place it against the marked plumb line on the wall. Make sure
you have about two inches of extra paper at the top of the
wall. (The extra ½ on the left edge will go into the corner
and onto the adjacent wall.) To help the wallpaper wrap, you
will need to slit it in the corner at the top and bottom.
Use your hands to gently smooth the top half of the wallpaper,
unbook the bottom half and then use a smoothing brush or
plastic smoothing tool to press the wallpaper to the wall and
remove any air bubbles or excess paste. It is best to smooth
from the center to the edges in diagonal movements.
Hang the second strip. You should match the pattern at eye
level first and then work up to the ceiling and down to the
baseboards. Do not overlap the strips, just butt the edges. Do
not over work the strip by pushing or pulling….this can
stretch the wallcovering. Reposition by lifting it away from
the wall and sliding into position.
Make sure the strips are tight against each other and the
wall. Use a razor knife and a trim guide (a wide putty knife
works very well) to carefully trim off any excess wallcovering
at the top and bottom. You should always turn off the
electrical power to any switches and outlets before trimming
around them.
Make sure the seam is tight. You can roll the seam lightly
with a seam roller or press with the smoothing tool. Do not
use a seam roller on raised or embossed designs.
Thoroughly rinse the strips with a sponge or soft cloth and
clean water. Wipe dry with a clean cloth. Any paste that is
left on the surface of the wallcovering can cause damage to
the wallpaper inks and is not considered a defect of the
material.
After you have hung two strips, inspect them carefully for any
color shading or other defects. (If there is a problem, stop
and notify Seabrook's customer service.)
Continue working your way to the first corner. When you reach
the corner and the wall space is narrower than the width of
your wallpaper, you measure the space and add ½ inch.
Carefully measure and cut the next strip so to the size of the
space including the extra ½ inch. Hang this part of the split
strip as you did the others, but allow the extra ½ to wrap
around to the next wall. (You do not want to wrap more than
this, because corner walls are usually not perfectly parallel,
and wrapping wide strips can cause major wrinkling and
tearing.)
When you move to the next wall, you will be hanging the
balance of the strip. Measure this portion of the strip and
make a new plumb line by measuring out from the corner….this
time the same width as the strip. Make a new vertical plumb
line on the wall. Here you will place the right edge of the
strip against the marked plumb line and slide the left edge
into the corner, overlapping the half inch that wrapped around
the corner - this time overlapping is good! - and match the
pattern as well as you can. You now are assured that the
wallcovering will be plumb. Continue until you have finished
the room.
(Outside corners- Sometimes rooms have outside corners as well
as the more common inside corners. You should follow the same
basic instructions for outside corners, because wrapping
around them can be just as problematic as inside ones. Measure
to allow for a ½ wrap, and split the strip. Hang the first
portion, and then after marking a new plumb line, hang the
balance of the strip on the new wall.)
Cutting
Around Doors and Windows:
Hang the entire strip of paper and smooth it into place to the
edge of the door or window frame. Make diagonal cuts in the
wallpaper at the door or window frame corners. Remove the bulk
of the paper that was covering the door or window opening and
smooth the wallpaper against the molding. Now use the razor
knife and trim guide to neatly trim the edges.
Light
Switches and Electrical Outlets:
Remember to turn off the electrical power!
Paper over the light switches and outlets. Using a razor
knife, cut and trim an area slightly smaller than the switch
plate or outlet cover. Replace the covers when finished. Tip:
for a designer effect, you can apply your wallpaper to the
switch and plate covers. Be sure to match the pattern.
Borders:
Applying a border is simple. If you are hanging on a painted
wall, you will need to follow the same prep instructions as
for wallcovering. If the border is to be applied over
wallcovering, you will need to use vinyl-to-vinyl adhesive or
another recommended adhesive, even if the border is prepasted.
Prepasted borders that are not hung over other wallcovering
can be loosely rolled with the pattern on the inside, and
immersed in water. Be sure to follow the directions for the
temperature of the water and the length of soaking time.
As you pull the border from the water, place it on a flat work
surface. "Book" the border by accordion folding. (Take
approximately 6 inches and loosely fold paste side to paste
side, then, do the same with pattern side to pattern side.)
Allow the border to rest or "book" for the suggested amount of
time - not longer than three minutes. "Booking" allows the
border time to absorb water and the paper fibers to relax.
For unpasted borders you should apply the recommended adhesive
with a narrow paint roller or a brush.
Start hanging the border in an inconspicuous corner,
overlapping it ¼ inch into the corner on the adjacent wall.
Gradually unfold the border as you smooth it into place. Rinse
thoroughly so that no paste residue is left on the surface of
the border. (Paste that is left on the surface can damage the
inks. This is not considered a defect.)
When you reach a corner, cut the border so that about ¼ inch
goes onto the next wall. Start the next wall by hanging the
rest of the border, overlapping the ¼ inch that went around
the corner.
When you come to the end of a spool of border, match the
pattern with a new spool. Overlap the borders at the pattern
match and using a razor knife and a straight edge, cut through
the two borders on a diagonal. Peel back both edges and remove
the overlap. Smooth back into place and you will find that you
have a perfect match from spool to spool.
Borders
as Accents:
If you are planning to use a border around windows or
doorways, you will need to measure accordingly. Since you will
need to overlap at each corner, you will need to take into
account that you will need to add the depth of the border to
your measurements in order to allow for the overlapping or
mitering. To avoid pattern mismatches at the corners, you
might want to consider selecting a border that does not have a
strong directional print. To create a miter cut at the corners
of a window or doorway, simply overlap the two border ends
where they meet at the corners. Use a razor knife and a
straight edge to carefully cut through both layers at a 45
degree angle. Gently peel back and remove the excess, then
press flat. The seams should butt perfectly. Rinse with clean
water to remove all paste from the border, wall and molding.
If you want to use a border to create a chair rail, measure
and mark the height that you prefer. Use a level to draw a
line on the wall or walls. This will be your guide for the
horizontal edge of the border.
Related Topics
Easier Wallpaper Removal
Wallpaper removal is easy. Well, maybe it's not really easy,
but I have good news for you. Yes, stripping wallpaper is
messy and it is time consuming. You would rather do almost
anything else. As a professional, my clients have often told
me that if not for the wallpaper removal, they would have
decorated the room themselves. It is such a deterrent.
(Other) Ways
to Use Wallpaper
Don’t throw your extra wallcovering
away! Always save some for any future repairs. Additionally,
scraps and wallpaper overage can be used for a variety of
crafty projects such as.
Why Wallpaper?
With so many design options in the world of home decorating
today, why use wallpaper? Besides the obvious beauty that
wallpaper brings to a home, the practicality of its durability
and cleanability is a definite bonus in adorning your walls. |
